One Club Row Review – A Must-Visit Dining Experience

Recently, a friend sent me a note urging me not to review One Club Row. Even though it had just opened, he could already sense it was going to become the trendiest restaurant in the area. “I’m going to get tired of hearing about it,” he said. So, I promptly made a reservation.

This place is truly something special. Enjoy this write-up now, as soon, you won’t escape the buzz surrounding it. Walking into this charming restaurant above a pub at 6 PM on a Wednesday, I could feel the electric atmosphere; it seemed to be the perfect spot in the world at that moment. Plus, there’s a taxi light out front to indicate if they have tables for walk-ins—ingenious!

No wonder it’s so vibrant. One of the owners, James Dye, co-owns the renowned Camberwell Arms, recognized as one of the top dining spots in south London. It’s a popular meeting place for young families drawn to the area for a better living environment.

The other owner, Benjy Liebowitz, previously served as the maître d’ at NoMad, one of New York City’s premier cocktail bars, which speaks volumes about the quality and atmosphere you can expect here.

While located in East London, the ambiance carries hints of New York City style. Perhaps it’s the reserved bar seating for spontaneous visitors or the exceptional martinis. There’s a blend of classic and contemporary aesthetics with white tablecloths and a schnitzel offering reminiscent of upscale cafés, all complemented by stonewashed walls, original fireplaces, and striking modern art. It’s an exhilarating fusion that makes one feel a bit giddy—though the martinis might play a part!

Of course, we indulged in martinis. Our server emphasized that this is the highlight of the visit. Josh opted for one infused with olive oil, while I went for the house specialty: gin enhanced by a hint of sweetness from Italicus liqueur and a maraschino cherry resting at the bottom. We began our meal with a lobster and ham croquette, which was solid, but the pickled jalapeño cheesy gougères left me in awe with their mustard, lemon, and a delightful sweetness from the chillies.

Moving on to the starters, we savored plump, flavorful tomatoes atop a delicate layer of stracciatella cheese, and barbecued asparagus served on labneh sprinkled with hazelnuts and lemon—definitely the highlight of our meal. Tempted by the enticing sights of another table, we also decided to try the tuna crudo.

For mains, we enjoyed pork schnitzel served with mustard sauce and creative dollops of tangy gorgonzola, alongside roasted cod served on luxuriously creamy buckwheat polenta, which was a satisfying, though less noteworthy dish.

Our curiosity was piqued by the adjacent table’s generous bowl of mussels accompanied by an appealing dish. “Could we please have one of whatever that is?” we inquired eagerly.

When the eagerly awaited dish arrived, it was an innovative take on potato—think of it as an exquisitely delicate hash brown, crafted into a long, thin, crispy piece. Josh was thrilled, exclaiming, “I didn’t think potatoes had anything new to offer, but here we are!”

Despite our fullness, we couldn’t resist the temptation of a Dutch baby pancake, which is essentially a sweet Yorkshire pudding topped with blueberries, Chantilly cream, and smoked maple bacon. It captured American indulgence with a touch of European elegance.

This dining experience is undoubtedly not on the cheaper side. However, with some strategic ordering, it’s possible to enjoy a meal here without breaking the bank. The charm of One Club Row makes it easy to indulge and want to try everything on the menu. As I left, I contemplated various life changes, including moving to New York, but instead, I decided to make a second reservation for next week—before the word gets out.