London’s Late-Night Dining Scene Sees Revival Amid Changing Trends

While New York is often dubbed the city that never sleeps, London has historically leaned towards earlier nights.

A combination of strict licensing regulations, noise complaints from residents, staffing challenges, soaring rent prices, and a rising cost of living have resulted in a relatively subdued late-night culture in the capital.

However, as pubs shut their doors earlier and dancefloors become scarce, restaurants are stepping in to fill the gap for those looking to enjoy late-night outings.

Although central London is far from the vibrant 24-hour city advertised by Mayor Sadiq Khan, there is an increasing demand for dining reservations later in the evening, particularly from 7 PM to 8 PM.

Soho’s Mountain, hailed as the “most exciting restaurant this year” in a 2023 review, has extended its last booking slot to 10:30 PM.

Owner Tomos Parry, who also launched Brat in Shoreditch, is optimistic about the gradual revival of late-night dining.

“It’s not quite like the bustling late-night dining scenes of the 1990s and 2000s, but we are beginning to see a comeback,” he said. “I would welcome a stronger resurgence of late-night dining.”

Parry noted that the rise in demand is partly due to the return of diners looking for a meal after theater performances. Tourists staying in the city-center hotels eager to experience the latest culinary hot spots are also increasingly filling tables beyond 9 PM.

Speedboat Bar, designed with a Thai sports bar concept, accommodates reservations until 10:30 PM and offers a late-night menu from 11 PM to 12:30 AM on Fridays and Saturdays.

Additionally, Noodle and Beer in Chinatown allows guests to reserve tables until 1:45 AM on Saturdays.

The Dover, a New York-style Italian eatery, allows bookings up to 11:30 PM from Thursday to Saturday, often reaching 80 to 90 percent capacity during that time.

Prominent restaurateur Jeremy King, known for founding esteemed establishments like The Wolseley and The Ivy, recently voiced his desire for a return to the lavish dining experiences of the 1980s.

Reflecting on his early career in hospitality during the 1970s, King recalled how last orders were typically called at 1 AM. “Now, it’s nearly impossible to find anything to eat after 10 PM. I don’t entirely understand how this shift occurred, but I’m committed to changing it,” he remarked.

To encourage late-night dining, King has introduced a 25 percent discount for guests who dine after 9:45 PM at his restaurants, Arlington and The Park.

“I aim to motivate people to rediscover the joy of dining late at night,” he shared.

The trend towards earlier dining in London has been accelerated by the Covid-19 pandemic, which dramatically transformed the hospitality landscape and altered diners’ habits, posing challenges for restaurateurs aiming to reinstate late-night dining.

Shifts in lifestyle preferences now see individuals prioritizing sleep over late-night meals, while flexible working arrangements have made booking tables at 6 PM — before the evening rush — increasingly appealing. Earlier reservation times have become a favored option for parents and younger diners, who typically consume less alcohol and may not seek refreshments at separate venues.

In a report released in May, online reservation platform OpenTable noted a 6 percent increase in bookings for tables between 4 PM and 6 PM across the UK since January. Leading restaurants have adapted to this trend to attract patrons earlier in the evening.

At Portland, a Michelin-starred restaurant located in Fitzrovia, diners who make reservations between 5:30 PM and 6:30 PM are offered a special menu priced at £55, as opposed to the usual £110 tasting menu.