Exploring the Vibrant Wine Scene of South Africa

Dubbed a revolution, this movement in South Africa’s wine industry brought a new era without the dismantling of walls or regimes. The significant transformation involved not bloodshed, but the richness of red wine.

In the early 2000s, a group of innovative winemakers found inspiration from the diverse soils and elevations of Swartland, a warm region located just 45 minutes north of Cape Town. They rediscovered forgotten vineyards, planted new ones, and utilized natural yeasts for fermentation while minimizing intervention. The resulting wines were so enchanting that many wine enthusiasts, including those like myself who typically preferred South African whites, found their preferences shifting. This, after all, is what revolution is about: changing perceptions.

While South Africa’s winemaking tradition dates back to the 1650s, its earliest production was limited to Constantia and Stellenbosch. Following the end of apartheid in the early 1990s, the power of large cooperatives—which dominated the market by focusing on volume rather than quality—began to wane, giving rise to private wineries dedicated to crafting higher-quality wines.

The Swartland Revolution took root in 1999 when Eben Sadie founded Sadie Family Wines surrounded by a landscape of wheat fields. He was soon joined by other enterprising winemakers who were eager to innovate. Among them is Adi Badenhorst, whose youthful spirit complements his impressive wines, including single-vineyard cinsaults and the Raaigras grenache, hailing from the country’s oldest grenache vineyard. Badenhorst notes that the grape responds distinctly to its terroir: “Grenache is one of those grapes that listens to where it’s planted.”

Another notable winery, David & Nadia, represents a different model under the stewardship of David Sadie (unrelated to Eben). With limited production from a compact winery, Sadie focuses on securing top-quality grapes to create delightful chenin blancs and a fragrant grenache-syrah blend known as Elpidios, showcasing the excellence of carefully sourced fruit.

Today, Swartland is home to approximately 30 wineries, where pricing has become favorable due to the weak rand—top wines can be had for around £60, with some under £30. The volume is generally small, as many vines are untrellised, allowing them to naturally shade their fruit from the harsh sun, contributing to the area’s untamed beauty.

These wines are sophisticated and diverse, as exemplified by the remarkable chenin and syrah blends from Chris and Andrea Mullineux, who highlight the variety of Swartland’s soils—iron, schist, and my personal favorite, granite. Their red blend features an elegant fusion of black tea and red fruit notes.

Before venturing further inland to Tulbagh, I had the opportunity to visit Callie Louw, who manages his organic vineyards with tenacity, cultivating his vines on arid slopes. His Porseleinberg estate is part of the Boekenhoutskloof group, and much of his fruit contributes to The Chocolate Block, a popular Swartland blend. The estate’s exceptional single-vineyard syrah, Porseleinberg, features notes of tobacco leaf and blackberry, embodying Louw’s philosophy on viticulture.

At first glance, the lush lawns and intricate artworks of the estate where Rudiger Gretschel produces Krone premium sparkling wine may seem worlds apart from a single-vineyard syrah, but Gretschel is deeply committed to his amphora-aged, exquisitely crafted blanc de blancs. To showcase an adventurous aspect of his winemaking, Gretschel took me to his remote estate, Swartberg Wingerde, located in the Citrusdal mountains, where he has taken to maintaining traditional bush vines in deep sand. His Holism Grenache astonishes with its layers of plum, spice, and white pepper, proving that true innovation thrives in the wild landscapes.

Five Exceptional Chardonnays to Enjoy

By Jane MacQuitty

2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

A stunning blanc de blancs chardonnay that showcases intense citrus-blossom and almond flavors.

2023 Chablis Domaine de l’Enclos

A striking greeny-gold Chablis with a steely finish, perfect for any wine enthusiast.

2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Clos de la Chapelle, Domaine de la Vougeraie

A magnum from a prestigious vineyard, offering a rich tangy umami and mineral complexity.

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet La Bergerie, Domaine Darviot-Perrin

An outstanding white Burgundy known for its soft, honeyed, and floral notes.

2022 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay, Australia

A vibrant and energetic Australian chardonnay bursting with fresh, herbaceous flavors.