A. Interesting dilemma! There’s quite a divide on our food desk regarding air fryers. My colleague, Hannah Evans, swears by them, while I’m a bit more cautious.

Essentially, air fryers function as compact yet powerful convection ovens. They heat up faster and are generally more energy-efficient compared to traditional ovens, though they come with some limitations in terms of capacity. If you’re cooking for just one or two people frequently and often reheat food, an air fryer can be a great choice. They’re also a useful option for those seeking a healthier cooking method since they require significantly less oil than deep frying.

On the other hand, if you typically prepare meals for a larger group or prefer cooking from scratch, air fryers may not be as practical. While there are larger models available now, the cost efficiency tends to diminish as size increases. Research from Uswitch indicates that a small air fryer operates at a cost of 22p-54p per hour, while a large air fryer costs between 49p-76p, and conventional electric ovens range from 54p to £1.35.

When considering an air fryer, also remember to take the purchase price into account (with models ranging from £30 to £300) and evaluate whether you have sufficient counter space for an appliance of this size.

Feel free to submit your culinary inquiries below or email kitchenclinic@sunday-times.co.uk

On Friday, patrons lined up for one of two main dishes available: sausage with mashed potatoes or vegetable lasagne, each priced at €6.90, which forms the restaurant’s name.

Matteo Balavoine, a 23-year-old co-owner, shared that this level of interest has persisted since the restaurant’s opening in March. “We’ve seen a real surge in business,” he noted, revealing that they serve as many as 300 meals daily.

The 6.90 is part of a small yet growing trend of restaurants across France offering inexpensive dining options in response to the ongoing cost of living crisis, igniting significant debate.

Supporters argue that these so-called “anti-crisis menus” are enticing customers who reduced their dining out frequency since inflation began to rise in recent years. Conversely, critics assert that such low prices undermine profitability and threaten the restaurant industry as a whole.

Despite France’s reputation for affordable eateries—particularly in comparison to the UK—the average price for dining out has surged by approximately 23% from 2022 to 2024. A survey by Ipsos revealed that nearly 40% of respondents dined out less frequently than they did in 2019.

Many chefs found their establishments facing dwindling clientele. For instance, the Bellevue, located near Limoges, previously charged an average of €17 for a three-course meal but was drawing only seven visitors daily after being acquired by Laurent Berger in 2022. “My accountant warned me I would go bust,” said Berger, who is now 55.

In response, he diversified the Bellevue’s offerings by creating a first-class section with meals priced up to €59 per person and a second-class area serving a three-course meal, including wine and coffee, for €10 on weekdays during lunch hours.

This strategy has proven successful, with Berger noting that they now serve between 70 to 100 meals daily.

Using only fresh ingredients, Berger manages to control costs by limiting menu options and negotiating with suppliers.

On Thursdays, for example, the menu featured a salad for starters, followed by black pudding with mashed potatoes, concluding with panna cotta for dessert. “If you don’t enjoy black pudding, then that’s too bad,” he remarked.

Meanwhile, Balavoine, still pursuing his studies at a Paris business school, employs a similar model at the 6.90. With a limited selection consisting of two main courses and a dessert—chocolate mousse for €2.90—he efficiently negotiates ingredient prices with suppliers, ensuring freshness.

To further reduce expenses, the restaurant operates without waitstaff. Customers order at the register, retrieve their meals, and are responsible for clearing their tables.

For those who prefer dining experiences that are not fast food yet are budget-conscious, this model has been well-received. Local resident Lino Galdin, 26, praised the restaurant as “quick, satisfying, and fulfilling,” while dining with 26-year-old consultant Paulina Flores. They were in Paris for training and found many other venues too pricey.

Balavoine initially opened the 6.90 as a trial, which is set to conclude next week. Given the response, he aims to maintain operations permanently after the summer.

However, Thierry Marx, chairman of the hotel and restaurant owners’ association Umih, warned against the rise of low-cost dining. “We must differentiate between revenue and profit,” he cautioned, emphasizing that sustaining over time without profits is unsustainable.

Bernard Boutboul, chairman of food consultancy Gira, echoed these sentiments, labeling the “anti-crisis” menus as “dangerous,” indicating that a culture of low pricing could hinder customers from paying more, potentially driving numerous establishments out of business.

Balavoine acknowledged that while each meal at the 6.90 incurs a cost that’s 35% higher than the ingredient price, covering all operational expenses would necessitate expanding to three or four similar restaurants to ensure profitability.

Shellfish and anise flavors blend seamlessly, and although herbs like chervil and fennel work nicely, I find tarragon’s creamy grassiness particularly appealing. While linguine is the classic pasta to accompany crab, seeking out alternative long pasta shapes with wavy edges, like mafaldine, can enhance the sauce’s adherence.

Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 400g linguine or similar long pasta
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• Zest and juice of 2 lemons
• 200g brown crabmeat
• A handful of fresh tarragon leaves, coarsely chopped
• 200g white crabmeat
• A generous pinch of chili flakes

Instructions

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until it reaches an al dente texture.

2. While the pasta cooks, heat olive oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Add minced garlic and sauté for about one minute, ensuring it does not brown. Stir in half the lemon zest along with the juice, then add the brown crabmeat.

3. Once the pasta is done, drain it while reserving a few spoonfuls of the cooking water. Combine half the tarragon with the sauce in the frying pan, adding a splash of reserved water to create a simmer. Gently stir in the white crabmeat to warm it through. Incorporate the pasta, seasoning to taste, and divide the dish among bowls. Top with remaining chili flakes, lemon zest, and tarragon. Serve hot.

Tarragon Gimlet

Herb-infused syrups are fantastic to keep on hand for mixing cocktails and mocktails. The preparation is straightforward regardless of the herb used. In a bowl, mix 300g sugar with 300ml boiling water until dissolved. Add a generous handful of tarragon and let it steep for about 45 minutes. Strain the mixture, discard the herb, and store the syrup in the refrigerator. It can last for several weeks, or even months.

I sometimes enjoy this with gin, but when I prefer a milder drink, diluting it with tonic works beautifully.

Yield: 1 serving

Ingredients

• 60ml vodka
• 30ml freshly squeezed lime juice
• 25ml tarragon syrup (from above)
• A thin slice of lime for garnish

Instructions

1. Combine all ingredients except the lime slice in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain into a glass. Garnish with the lime slice on the rim and enjoy.

Potato, Egg, and Watercress Salad with Tarragon

Tarragon works beautifully with eggs, potatoes, and radishes, showcasing its versatility in this dish. The recipe is flexible; consider swapping tarragon for coriander or basil, and it’s also delightful with chopped watercress mixed in.

Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 800g new potatoes, quartered
• 150g mayonnaise
• 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 2 celery sticks, finely chopped (leaves reserved)
• A handful of tarragon leaves, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp cider vinegar
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
• 6 radishes, thinly sliced
• A handful of chives, roughly chopped
• 6 cornichons or pickles, finely chopped
• 1 bunch watercress
• Olive oil

Instructions

1. Begin by placing the potatoes in a large pot of cold water, bringing it to a boil and cooking until just tender. Drain and transfer to a mixing bowl, allowing them to cool slightly.

2. In another bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, shallot, celery, tarragon, and cider vinegar, ensuring to season with salt and pepper.

3. Gently mix the dressing into the warm potatoes to coat them evenly. Top with chopped egg, radishes, chives, cornichons, and celery leaves. Add a generous amount of black pepper and serve alongside watercress drizzled with a little olive oil.

Tarragon and Olive Oil Ice Cream

This sophisticated dessert highlights the sweet grassy notes of tarragon. It’s best prepared using a high-quality, fruity olive oil instead of a peppery variety.

Yield: Approximately 900ml

Ingredients

• 250ml double cream
• 300ml whole milk
• 1 bunch tarragon, with half the leaves stripped
• 6 large egg yolks
• 140g sugar
• 120ml extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

1. Combine cream and milk in a saucepan with the half bunch of tarragon (unstripped), heating gently until just at a simmer.

2. In a blender, combine the yolks, sugar, and stripped tarragon leaves, blending on low before ramping up briefly. Gradually add the olive oil and a pinch of salt, blending until smooth.

3. Strain the warm cream mixture into a jug, discarding the tarragon. With the blender on low, slowly pour the milk into the yolk mixture. Once fully blended, return the mixture to the saucepan and gently heat while whisking until it slightly thickens. Allow to cool before chilling.

4. If you have an ice cream maker, churn the mixture; otherwise, freeze it in a plastic tub for a few hours. To achieve a smooth texture, blend it briefly before refreezing. Let it sit out for 20 minutes before serving to make scooping easier.

The late Bill Granger changed the brunch scene in Australia and even beyond. He is credited with popularizing dishes like avocado toast alongside his signature sweetcorn and courgette fritters, as well as ricotta hot cakes with honeycomb butter. Granger’s cafés elevated brunch into a cultural institution, making the dining experience feel as significant as a Sunday ritual.

His cafés are characterized by airy spaces adorned with potted plants, curated collections of magazines, and occasional pieces of artwork. The menus boast a variety of vibrant, modern dishes where quality coffee is a staple, and the service is laid-back and welcoming. Granger essentially defined a brunch lifestyle.

Dublin has often mirrored the dining trends of other major cities—third-wave coffee shops, natural wine bars, taco joints, and smash burger places have all found their way here, and the brunch wave is no exception.

Just as Granger redefined brunch in Australia in the mid-’90s, Taurean Coughlan and Kevin Roche returned from Melbourne to establish Two Boys Brew on Dublin’s North Circular Road in 2016. Over the past seven years, many cafés in the city have tried to replicate their success through identical menus and interiors, but Two Boys Brew has remained a benchmark in Dublin’s brunch scene.

Drawing inspiration from their experiences in both London and Melbourne, Coughlan and Roche were influenced by their time managing renowned cafés under Domini Kemp (Joe’s) and Garrett Fitzgerald (Brother Hubbard). They transformed a former chicken shop in Phibsborough into a vibrant café reminiscent of Melbourne, prioritizing brunch while collaborating with top coffee roasters.

On a recent late Friday morning visit, it was evident that much of the menu has remained consistent since their establishment. This continuity speaks to their vision and the enduring appeal of their offerings.

Some dishes have been fine-tuned over time, such as the roasted mushrooms on toast, which have been part of the menu since 2016. The dish features herb-roasted portobello mushrooms on a bed of confit garlic hummus, complemented by balsamic-roasted red onions and a vibrant salsa verde, all served on high-quality sourdough, generously topped with grated parmesan. The deliciousness of this dish makes it easy to overlook the poached egg it conceals.

The avocado toast here is another standout; it’s a smashed version spiced with mint and perfectly seasoned with lime and salt. Underneath, a lemony, garlicky hummus adds depth, while roasted pumpkin seeds provide a satisfying crunch, complemented by a neatly poached egg.

However, the real star is the house hot sauce, which is so good that it is bottled and sold. Halloumi sticks, which are crispy and breaded, often accompany dishes but feel optional, showcasing the kitchen’s commitment to textural contrast in every meal.

Regarding coffee, the flat whites are priced under €4 and are exceptional, perfectly embodying the Antipodean café tradition—ideal in size, texture, and temperature. The house espresso beans are sourced from Belfast’s Root and Branch, with a rotating selection of guest roasters including Established Coffee and Dublin-based Blind Monkey Coffee. A delightful array of iced beverages is also available.

As we transition from savory to sweet, the French toast emerges as one of Dublin’s finest—light and fluffy brioche slices adorned with vanilla mousse and dark caramel sauce, topped with a crumble of caramelized white chocolate. Roasted strawberries add richness but could use a touch more acidity for brightness, perhaps through maceration in a berry vinegar.

The affogato menu intrigues with customizable toppings over rich espresso poured over creamy vanilla ice cream. Choosing cherry compote and dark chocolate crumb provides a delightful treat reminiscent of the classic Cherry Ripe bar, while a combination of caramel and almonds invokes thoughts of a melted Magnum. Why limit yourself? A combination of all toppings can create a lavish dessert that exemplifies the whimsical nature of brunch.

While many Irish embrace their connections to St Kilda in Melbourne, for a delightful slice of that culinary scene, one need only visit North Circular Road, where Two Boys Brew offers perhaps the finest brunch in Dublin.

Menu Highlights

Avocado toast €15.50
Mushrooms on toast €15
French toast €15.50
Affogato €6
Cortado €3.90
Flat white €4.40

Total: €60.30

Other Brunch Recommendations

For additional excellent brunch options across Ireland, consider these previously reviewed cafés:

Good Day Deli, Cork: New Zealand-inspired with a focus on local suppliers and sustainability, nestled in beautiful surroundings at Nano Nagle Place.

Neighbourhood, Belfast: Now located on Donegall Street, this newly expanded café has quickly become a local favorite.

Dela, Galway: Celebrating twelve successful years in a prime location on Galway’s West End, with queues that testify to its popularity.

Collider is indicative of a broader cultural shift towards finding a balance between excessive indulgence and complete sobriety, often referred to as moderation. This trend also represents a rebellion against strict wellness standards, with consumers seeking a joyful middle ground. Thus, we welcome the emergence of what is dubbed hedonism 2.0.

Cooke mentions that Collider will soon feature prominently on a new functional drinks menu at the Dishoom restaurant chain. The sector known as “non-alcoholic plus” or “mood-boosting adult beverages” is small yet flourishing. While some brands fail to offer effective doses of mood-enhancing substances, others, like Sentia, Kin Euphorics (co-founded by model Bella Hadid), Impossibrew, NuWave Mood Enhancing beers, Anima Mundi teas, and Karmaceuticals’ Sonder zero-proof drinks, have made significant strides. Hadid, upon her exit from alcohol consumption, articulated the importance of discerning between “pleasure and happiness,” emphasizing that Kin aims to evoke energy and joy instead of disconnection.

Recently, Karma Campbell, the founder of Karmaceuticals, opened a unique no-alcohol, fully functional craft cocktail bar at the Shoreditch & Soul wellness center in East London. With a background in herbal medicine, Campbell reflects on the generational insights he gained by observing how the past generation balanced partying and self-care. He began by offering his herbal cocktails at major UK festivals like Glastonbury and Boomtown, emphasizing choice in the fun-to-responsibility equation. His concoctions, including the popular Turbo Tonic, aim to deliver uplifting sensations without leaving the unpleasant side effects typically associated with alcohol.

Today’s innovations in beverage options reflect a societal evolution. After personally testing these mood-enhancing drinks, I can attest to their subtle yet noticeable effects, including restful sleep and no morning-after hangover. These beverages could even be enjoyed in a workplace setting.

The emergence of hedonism 2.0 addresses our shifting desires. In London’s new Town restaurant, chef Stevie Parle offers an ambiance reminiscent of lively dining establishments of bygone eras, encouraging guests to indulge without excessive compromise. He maintains that the focus remains on high-quality ingredients.

Parle recently launched a successful outdoor grill called Joy, known for its lobster and rosé offerings. With a growing focus on taste and overall experience, he acknowledges the emerging interest in wellness, noting that their Wild-farmed beef contains beneficial omega-3 fatty acids. Additionally, the influence of weight-loss medications like Ozempic is prompting many restaurants to re-evaluate their drink and food menus, offering various portion sizes to cater to diverse appetites.

Research supports users’ experiences, indicating that GLP-1 mimetics reduce cravings not just for food but for alcohol and other substances as well. The wine list at Town, featuring a selection of Bordeaux, is primarily available by the glass or carafe, appealing to those seeking smaller amounts. Parle emphasizes a commitment to providing enjoyable experiences for every patron while keeping wellness in mind.

As nightclubs and live music venues dwindle, a new trend toward “listening rooms” is emerging, with the expansive basement of Town set to feature a record collection curated by DJ associates, adding a chance for spontaneous gatherings. This trend, dubbed hedonism 2.0, caters to those who once embraced strict wellness regimens but now crave authentic experiences with a more balanced approach.

“People are becoming more aware that, while they acknowledge the downsides of drinking, they don’t want to completely forgo social enjoyment,” states Siobhan Payne, co-founder of the Pinnacle Guide to top bars. “Leading bars now offer either small cocktail options or half-measure versions of their main drinks, a trend gaining momentum globally, particularly in London, where innovative concepts like the one-sip martini are gaining popularity.”

Recently, Johnny Smith introduced his restaurant venture, Smith & Willis. This venue, designed for private events, showcases a fusion of Berlin speakeasy and modern loft aesthetics, reflecting the duo’s mission to facilitate enjoyable social experiences. Smith highlights a return to the joy of gathering over dining and music, stressing the contemporary need for fun and connection amidst a business-driven environment.

This new era of socializing prioritizes enjoyment and connection without the negative consequences often inflicted by excessive drinking, signaling a shift in how society approaches celebration and relaxation.

In the early 2000s, a group of innovative winemakers found inspiration from the diverse soils and elevations of Swartland, a warm region located just 45 minutes north of Cape Town. They rediscovered forgotten vineyards, planted new ones, and utilized natural yeasts for fermentation while minimizing intervention. The resulting wines were so enchanting that many wine enthusiasts, including those like myself who typically preferred South African whites, found their preferences shifting. This, after all, is what revolution is about: changing perceptions.

While South Africa’s winemaking tradition dates back to the 1650s, its earliest production was limited to Constantia and Stellenbosch. Following the end of apartheid in the early 1990s, the power of large cooperatives—which dominated the market by focusing on volume rather than quality—began to wane, giving rise to private wineries dedicated to crafting higher-quality wines.

The Swartland Revolution took root in 1999 when Eben Sadie founded Sadie Family Wines surrounded by a landscape of wheat fields. He was soon joined by other enterprising winemakers who were eager to innovate. Among them is Adi Badenhorst, whose youthful spirit complements his impressive wines, including single-vineyard cinsaults and the Raaigras grenache, hailing from the country’s oldest grenache vineyard. Badenhorst notes that the grape responds distinctly to its terroir: “Grenache is one of those grapes that listens to where it’s planted.”

Another notable winery, David & Nadia, represents a different model under the stewardship of David Sadie (unrelated to Eben). With limited production from a compact winery, Sadie focuses on securing top-quality grapes to create delightful chenin blancs and a fragrant grenache-syrah blend known as Elpidios, showcasing the excellence of carefully sourced fruit.

Today, Swartland is home to approximately 30 wineries, where pricing has become favorable due to the weak rand—top wines can be had for around £60, with some under £30. The volume is generally small, as many vines are untrellised, allowing them to naturally shade their fruit from the harsh sun, contributing to the area’s untamed beauty.

These wines are sophisticated and diverse, as exemplified by the remarkable chenin and syrah blends from Chris and Andrea Mullineux, who highlight the variety of Swartland’s soils—iron, schist, and my personal favorite, granite. Their red blend features an elegant fusion of black tea and red fruit notes.

Before venturing further inland to Tulbagh, I had the opportunity to visit Callie Louw, who manages his organic vineyards with tenacity, cultivating his vines on arid slopes. His Porseleinberg estate is part of the Boekenhoutskloof group, and much of his fruit contributes to The Chocolate Block, a popular Swartland blend. The estate’s exceptional single-vineyard syrah, Porseleinberg, features notes of tobacco leaf and blackberry, embodying Louw’s philosophy on viticulture.

At first glance, the lush lawns and intricate artworks of the estate where Rudiger Gretschel produces Krone premium sparkling wine may seem worlds apart from a single-vineyard syrah, but Gretschel is deeply committed to his amphora-aged, exquisitely crafted blanc de blancs. To showcase an adventurous aspect of his winemaking, Gretschel took me to his remote estate, Swartberg Wingerde, located in the Citrusdal mountains, where he has taken to maintaining traditional bush vines in deep sand. His Holism Grenache astonishes with its layers of plum, spice, and white pepper, proving that true innovation thrives in the wild landscapes.

Five Exceptional Chardonnays to Enjoy

By Jane MacQuitty

2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

A stunning blanc de blancs chardonnay that showcases intense citrus-blossom and almond flavors.

2023 Chablis Domaine de l’Enclos

A striking greeny-gold Chablis with a steely finish, perfect for any wine enthusiast.

2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Clos de la Chapelle, Domaine de la Vougeraie

A magnum from a prestigious vineyard, offering a rich tangy umami and mineral complexity.

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet La Bergerie, Domaine Darviot-Perrin

An outstanding white Burgundy known for its soft, honeyed, and floral notes.

2022 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay, Australia

A vibrant and energetic Australian chardonnay bursting with fresh, herbaceous flavors.

Having grown up between London and Colombo, Eroshan decided to shift away from corporate life to embrace a career in hospitality alongside his wife, Aushi. In 2019, they launched Kolamba on Kingly Street, an inviting eatery known for its flavorful Ceylon curries, conveniently located away from the bustling tourist area of Carnaby Street.

Now, after five successful years, the couple has opened a larger venue named Kolamba East, tailored for the tech-savvy crowd near Liverpool Street. Here, Eroshan highlights some of his favorite dining spots, ranging from budget-friendly options in Tooting to a lively establishment in Whitechapel.

Although Harrow might not feature prominently on many food guides, Saravanaa Bhavan merits the trip on the Metropolitan line. This modest restaurant is just a short walk from the Tube station and delivers an authentic taste of South Indian cuisine. With a warm atmosphere and unforgettable dosas that are thin, crispy, and golden, it’s the ideal destination for a memorable family meal.

Machan Kitchen, Farringdon

For those who enjoy Sri Lankan dishes, Machan Kitchen in Farringdon offers a delightful stop for a quick bite before heading out. Known for its spicy coconut curries, kottu roti, and flavorful mutton rolls, the restaurant provides quick service and an array of traditional flavors, including marinated beef strips and slow-cooked goat stew. Despite its location amid the hustle of Clerkenwell and the City, Machan captures a relaxed Sri Lankan vibe that is distinct in London. The owner, Roshan, is particularly welcoming.

Jaffna House, Tooting

Jaffna House, a hidden gem on Tooting High Street, is renowned for its remarkable crab curry that keeps patrons returning frequently. This small Sri Lankan Tamil eatery, with its straightforward decor and budget-friendly prices, serves some of the finest home-style dishes in the city. Celebrated for their flavorful, heritage-rich cooking, the owners have cultivated a dedicated following over the years, making it a wonderful spot for anyone seeking authentic, generous portions of comfort food.

Tayyabs, Whitechapel

East London boasts a variety of excellent dining choices, particularly around Brick Lane and Whitechapel, yet Tayyabs consistently ranks as a top pick for many food lovers. If you haven’t ventured there yet, it’s highly recommended by locals and visitors alike. Since opening in 1972, this family-operated restaurant has become a staple for bold Punjabi flavors. Be sure to taste their famed lamb chop masala, served alongside fresh naan for scooping up the delicious sauce. Expect a lively atmosphere, especially in the evenings, so consider visiting with friends for a spirited night out.

This place is truly something special. Enjoy this write-up now, as soon, you won’t escape the buzz surrounding it. Walking into this charming restaurant above a pub at 6 PM on a Wednesday, I could feel the electric atmosphere; it seemed to be the perfect spot in the world at that moment. Plus, there’s a taxi light out front to indicate if they have tables for walk-ins—ingenious!

No wonder it’s so vibrant. One of the owners, James Dye, co-owns the renowned Camberwell Arms, recognized as one of the top dining spots in south London. It’s a popular meeting place for young families drawn to the area for a better living environment.

The other owner, Benjy Liebowitz, previously served as the maître d’ at NoMad, one of New York City’s premier cocktail bars, which speaks volumes about the quality and atmosphere you can expect here.

While located in East London, the ambiance carries hints of New York City style. Perhaps it’s the reserved bar seating for spontaneous visitors or the exceptional martinis. There’s a blend of classic and contemporary aesthetics with white tablecloths and a schnitzel offering reminiscent of upscale cafés, all complemented by stonewashed walls, original fireplaces, and striking modern art. It’s an exhilarating fusion that makes one feel a bit giddy—though the martinis might play a part!

Of course, we indulged in martinis. Our server emphasized that this is the highlight of the visit. Josh opted for one infused with olive oil, while I went for the house specialty: gin enhanced by a hint of sweetness from Italicus liqueur and a maraschino cherry resting at the bottom. We began our meal with a lobster and ham croquette, which was solid, but the pickled jalapeño cheesy gougères left me in awe with their mustard, lemon, and a delightful sweetness from the chillies.

Moving on to the starters, we savored plump, flavorful tomatoes atop a delicate layer of stracciatella cheese, and barbecued asparagus served on labneh sprinkled with hazelnuts and lemon—definitely the highlight of our meal. Tempted by the enticing sights of another table, we also decided to try the tuna crudo.

For mains, we enjoyed pork schnitzel served with mustard sauce and creative dollops of tangy gorgonzola, alongside roasted cod served on luxuriously creamy buckwheat polenta, which was a satisfying, though less noteworthy dish.

Our curiosity was piqued by the adjacent table’s generous bowl of mussels accompanied by an appealing dish. “Could we please have one of whatever that is?” we inquired eagerly.

When the eagerly awaited dish arrived, it was an innovative take on potato—think of it as an exquisitely delicate hash brown, crafted into a long, thin, crispy piece. Josh was thrilled, exclaiming, “I didn’t think potatoes had anything new to offer, but here we are!”

Despite our fullness, we couldn’t resist the temptation of a Dutch baby pancake, which is essentially a sweet Yorkshire pudding topped with blueberries, Chantilly cream, and smoked maple bacon. It captured American indulgence with a touch of European elegance.

This dining experience is undoubtedly not on the cheaper side. However, with some strategic ordering, it’s possible to enjoy a meal here without breaking the bank. The charm of One Club Row makes it easy to indulge and want to try everything on the menu. As I left, I contemplated various life changes, including moving to New York, but instead, I decided to make a second reservation for next week—before the word gets out.

Fresh, sustainable eating options are becoming increasingly sought after, and one exceptional choice can be found at the foot of the Pentlands in a 600-year-old cow barn. This is The Free Company: a regenerative, no-dig farm situated on the lush outskirts of Edinburgh, renowned for supplying top-notch restaurants throughout the city. TFC also features its very own farm-to-table dining experience, quickly earning acclaim comparable to a midsummer courgette’s rapid growth.

Traveling by car, my daughter Claire and I arrive at this quaint location; public transport is an option to Balerno, but it involves a lengthy walk and sturdy footwear. As we turn towards the farm, we observe fields where TFC’s Shetland sheep are grazing, destined for an upcoming dish featuring hogget shoulder wrapped in flavorful skirlie—oats cooked with onions.

From the Farm to Your Fork

Upon arrival, we park near the market garden where vibrant leeks stand proud. Nearby, blackcurrant bushes are being steeped in custard to create a delightful seasonal tart. Scattered across the 300 acres are TFC’s heritage Dexter cows and rare breed pigs, including Berkshire and Mangalitsa, with cuts available for purchase at its online farm shop and highlighted throughout the daily menu. This truly embodies the farm-to-table concept.

The restaurant itself is a stylishly converted byre, striking a balance between charming rusticity and modern aesthetics. Diners can experience TFC’s communal “feasting sessions,” previously pay-what-you-wish but now priced at £85 per person, featuring a tasting menu served in one sitting. We choose the ambitious à la carte menu, in addition to the Spread, which showcases the finest seasonal produce from the farm, plus a children’s menu featuring garden vegetable soup, potato dough pizza (which my daughter rates a solid 7 out of 10), and hot cross bun ice cream—every bit as delightful as it sounds.

Exceptional Ingredients

Seasonality shines through in the menu as familiar ingredients repeatedly appear in creative forms. For instance, the leeks feature prominently in a unique dish of “garden scrumpets”—crisp, deep-fried bonbons filled with the week’s vegetable offcuts, encapsulating the essence of mid-May in a single bite. My starter is a breathtaking preparation of leeks, fire-roasted to achieve a crisp shell while remaining silky inside, complemented by asparagus, a vibrant wild garlic purée, crushed hazelnuts, and leek seeds the color of aged parchment.

Delightful Shetland mussels arrive doused in wild garlic butter and garnished with cured pork cheek, alongside sourdough from the beloved Palmerston bakery. Everything is spectacular, from the meat to the carefully curated dishes. TFC is committed to avoiding nitrates in its curing processes; the meats are lightly smoked using windfall timber from the farm while allowing the soil to thrive naturally. This hands-off methodology yields outstanding results both on the farm and in the kitchen—a testament to the ethos of head chef Craig Turner, who believes that less is often more when utilizing top-quality ingredients.

A Flavorful Connection to the Land

The outcome is a dining experience that showcases the true flavor of the animals and the land that nourished them. This sentiment is epitomized by my Dexter ribeye, rich with marbling and served in a hearty gravy, complemented by sunflower-yellow carrot purée, chard, and crispy beef fat tattie strati. While I think an extra layer of char could elevate the dish from great to exceptional, it’s still an unforgettable plate. My daughter eagerly sets aside her pizza to savor half of it.

The entire-animal usage embodies TFC’s commitment to sustainability. Claire’s hogget shoulder dish includes succulent slices of leg and crispy belly atop a chlorophyll-rich sorrel and chicory puree (our delightful server, Ella, notes this was due to an abundance of greens). The offal from the hogget is served on flatbread, while the Dexter cow’s meaty offerings include raw beef as a starter and a straightforward liver dish, cooked generously in wild garlic butter and served alongside creamy mash. Ella fielded every inquiry with genuine enthusiasm, answering questions about the components of my dessert, which featured toasty barley atop pumpkin seed frangipane with stewed rhubarb and honey parfait—a truly glorious finale to the meal. The drink menu is equally impressive, featuring seasonal syrups, shrubs, and cordials made on-site.

The Free Company’s name evokes a vision of a collective of idealists dedicated to nurturing change through food. The brothers Angus and Charlie Buchanan-Smith embody this deeply personal mission. With their family’s dairy farm shuttered due to plummeting milk prices, they were warned against pursuing agriculture. Yet, in 2016, they acquired the historically cultivated land known as Cockdurno, slated for development. Through their determination, they have transformed it into one of Scotland’s most thrilling farm-to-table destinations in under a decade.

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The Free Company, Balerno, Edinburgh EH14 7HZ